Rack end replacement... aka ITR inner tie rod

just get a crow's foot with the correct jaw width.

Or use an 8-10" pipe wrench.

Shoot. A simple 10" Crescent would probably work too.
 
Rock62 said:
just get a crow's foot with the correct jaw width.

Or use an 8-10" pipe wrench.

Shoot. A simple 10" Crescent would probably work too.
Click to expand...

what do you know about these gen1 rack ends?
are they the same as gen2?
IDK!

these rack ends it appears you need a narrow width wrench that also delivers much leverage counter torques
 
i do believe this task done at the Yota shop is nearly 700$... for just one side which may or may not include the outer end
 
how do the shopMonkey inspect the rack end for the loosey goosey play WITHOUT removing the rack bellow boot ??
and whilst the outer is still fully attached?
 
claw washer for rack end
260c

9021418002 - Toyota Washer, claw(for steering rack end). Power | Lewis Toyota, Topeka KS

Genuine Toyota Part # 9021418002 (90214-18002) - Washer, claw(for steering rack end). Power, brakes, suspension. Fits 4Runner, Land Cruiser, LX 470, Tacoma. Ships from Lewis Toyota, Topeka KS
parts.lewistoyota.com


rack end @ OEM pricey pricey
includes the claw washer

170$ ... MSRP is 247$

4550339075 - Toyota Steering Tie Rod End. POWER, Brakes | Lewis Toyota, Topeka KS

Genuine Toyota Part # 4550339075 (45503-39075) - Steering Tie Rod End. POWER, Brakes, Suspension. Fits 4Runner, Tacoma. Ships from Lewis Toyota, Topeka KS
parts.lewistoyota.com
 
Ok....lets apply a little practicality.

The inner rod end threads onto the rack. You only need a tool to turn it and apply the proper torque. The "claw" washer is staked over the flats on the inner rod. The purpose is to prevent turning or loosening of the inner rod. A simple 10" pipe wrench can easily apply the 56 ftlb torque, which is not a high torque level.

Gen2, although not the same part, install in a similar manner.

Try not to overthink this.

Consider. If the outer tie rod end needs to be replaced, then the inner probably also needs to be replaced. Both ends have seen the same conditions and mileage during their time on the truck. Sure the inner rod end has a bit less movement, so the wear rate will be a bit slower. Also, if the truck is apart to replace the outer, then it cost less to replace the inner at the same time. Otherwise, you will need to do the work a second time for the inner rod ends paying the time and labor costs again. Labor rates at shops run over $100/hr.
Stepping over $$ to save pennies.

Remember, you will need a front-end alignment after this work is completed.
 
you need a tool to also hold that rack steady so as you don't twist and bind it up
zeroFCKS
 
there are reports out there in Gen1 tacoLand that this can possibly be a massively tight connection, especially in the saltbelt after 26yrs
and no way to get that needed leverage to break the old hobbled under on your shoulder with the use of one arm while the other arm is half pinned
 
JayQQ97 said:
there are reports out there in Gen1 tacoLand that this can possibly be a massively tight connection, especially in the saltbelt after 26yrs
and no way to get that needed leverage to break the old hobbled under on your shoulder with the use of one arm while the other arm is half pinned
Click to expand...
Perhaps you should go to a shop to have the work done. They will have the equipment and tools to complete the work. Whereas a DIYer may need to cobble tools to complete the work.
 
how MANY times will the MOOG part fail and need to be replaced until the whole rack would need to be replaced, which includes BOTH rack ends that MSRP for that 247$ each by themselves?

a brand new OEM rack on that NiCE discount is a bit over 500$
 
Rock62 said:
Perhaps you should go to a shop to have the work done. They will have the equipment and tools to complete the work. Whereas a DIYer may need to cobble tools to complete the work.
Click to expand...
if its NOT more than 200$ i can budget that, but if its 700$ which it might be at the Yota shop with Yota parts then that blows the Taco budget right then and there since there is more than 5000$ (probably 7500$) of maintenance items that are on the docket currently
 
JayQQ97 said:
how MANY times will the MOOG part fail and need to be replaced until the whole rack would need to be replaced, which includes BOTH rack ends that MSRP for that 247$ each by themselves?

a brand new OEM rack on that NiCE discount is a bit over 500$
Click to expand...
Just 1 time.
 
Rock62 said:
Perhaps you should go to a shop to have the work done. They will have the equipment and tools to complete the work. Whereas a DIYer may need to cobble tools to complete the work.
Click to expand...

the cobbling would be more the time involved!
it could take 3 hours, could take 3 days, 3 months, 3years....
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top