? front suspension support sub-assy... aka shock mount... OEM or A/M gen1

JayQQ97

JayQQ97

MW surVivor ... clutched. 364k on the 0D0
how long in approximation are the OEM shock mounts good for?
is it better to stick OEM at the high cost or goto A/M mounts if they is zero difference with quality and longevity

part 48603/48609 in this diagram for Gen1 taco


480162E.png

http://www.japan-parts.eu/toyota/us...hassis/4803_front-spring-shock-absorber#48603


this is price for OEM
82$ after 31% off
MSRP is 119$
https://parts.lewistoyota.com/p/63368667/48609-35010.html

update 0n 7-Jan-2o24

86$ after 31% 0ff
MSRP is 124$

Shock Mount (Left, Right, Front) | Part #4860935010 | Toyota Auto Parts

Official Toyota Part # 4860935010 (48609-35010) - Shock Mount (Left, Right, Front) Genuine Toyota Part
autoparts.lewistoyota.com
 
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Depends where the truck is driven, and when the shocks should be replaced. Drive the truck on bad roads with bad shocks, and it gets expensive. Take care of rust proofing those areas where the shocks mount, drive on good roads, and they should last the life of the vehicle with normal maintenance.
 
my query has become which is a better shock mount insulator, the Toyota part# or an aftermarket such as a KYB assembly, there is a price difference by about 20$ or so from OEM at the discount from MSRP

they are made out of rubber so my originals are probably shot due to age and i was looking to replace them
there is also some pivot bearing inside the insulator i have learned and the original assemblies that were recently removed had some nice crust on them from the underside

if i do not like the handling of the monroe quickstruts recently put on i am going to try KYB front shocks but i cannot seem to find them in an assembly so I would need to compress the original springs and swap new stuff in

my confusion comes with if it was actually the Bilstein 5100s that were failing, somebody noted they were leaking but IDK what to look for (i had a bit of corrosion free spray and grime build up all over those assemblies) or was it the old insulator mounts that were shot and casing all kinds of banging noise on the simplest of bad bumps between pavement sections

i don't like to waste & throw good $$$ on stuff such as this, there are better things to waste it on :mad:
 
JayQQ97 said:
my query has become which is a better shock mount insulator, the Toyota part# or an aftermarket such as a KYB assembly, there is a price difference by about 20$ or so from OEM at the discount from MSRP

they are made out of rubber so my originals are probably shot due to age and i was looking to replace them
there is also some pivot bearing inside the insulator i have learned and the original assemblies that were recently removed had some nice crust on them from the underside

if i do not like the handling of the monroe quickstruts recently put on i am going to try KYB front shocks but i cannot seem to find them in an assembly so I would need to compress the original springs and swap new stuff in

my confusion comes with if it was actually the Bilstein 5100s that were failing, somebody noted they were leaking but IDK what to look for (i had a bit of corrosion free spray and grime build up all over those assemblies) or was it the old insulator mounts that were shot and casing all kinds of banging noise on the simplest of bad bumps between pavement sections

i don't like to waste & throw good $$$ on stuff such as this, there are better things to waste it on :mad:
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All i can say is the monroe's worked fine on my gen1 tundra. Maybe i'm not as fussy?, but i didn't notice any difference. I would of preferred kyb, but the monroe's were slap them on, and go. I replaced the rear shocks with kyb.
 
tacojoel said:
All i can say is the monroe's worked fine on my gen1 tundra. Maybe i'm not as fussy?, but i didn't notice any difference. I would of preferred kyb, but the monroe's were slap them on, and go. I replaced the rear shocks with kyb.
Click to expand...
IDK! Perhaps the truck is also in need of new rack bushings to stop the other jolting noise that is still there

I did wheel it at speed limit on a very broken patch of i80 and things handled much better than before I
 
JayQQ97 said:
IDK! Perhaps the truck is also in need of new rack bushings to stop the other jolting noise that is still there

I did wheel it at speed limit on a very broken patch of i80 and things handled much better than before I
Click to expand...
At 180k miles the rack went on my tundra...began leaking faster than i could fill it. Found a bunch of holes rusted through.....couldn't believe toyota use a steel rack, and not aluminum. I had to replace the rack, new steel lines to the pump, and tie rod ends.
 
i kept on hand the original OEM coil springs from fall-2o22

now thinking of looking at some australian KONI red shocks absorbers in the front

probably need a new rubbery shock mount aka topHat

compress springs on shopmachine to remove the old Bilsteins still stuck in them


the coil springs themselves should be ok to reuse?
how do you go about testing those to see if they are good-2-go with some KONI brand
 
Idk anything about oddball aftermarket shocks when it comes to Toyota's. I like to stick with kyb. My tacoma has hitachi shocks which seem ok so far. Seems all the trd guys upgrade to 5100 bilsteins, replacing the old 4600 bilsteins that came on the truck. I don't get into changing coil spring rates either unless setting the truck up for a plow. I wouldn't reuse coil spring that are over 10 years old with a bunch of miles on them.
 
Springs are made from metal, they are constantly moving. Eventually, the metal will begin to fatigue becoming weaker. In simple words, over time the springs will soften.

The only way to evaluate the springs is to remove them. Measure the free (unloaded) length, compare to the new free length. AND compress them about 2 inches, determine the force (load) then divide by 2. This will give a one point measure of the spring rate. Compare to the spring rate of a new spring.

Be aware. Typical spring rates for automotive can be in the 700+ lbs/in. So, 2 inch compression will need around 1400 lbs at least. This likely isn't practical for the home DIY. Prolly best to stick with measurement of the free length compare to new free length.

Good Luck.
 
All coil springs sag as time goes by...add big miles, worn shocks, and lack of maintenance...sooner than later, they will need replacement. If you know what the spring rates of those coils when new, you'd need a large heavy duty spring compression gauge to test what your existing old springs are, vs. new ones.
 
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