Spark plugs on 2TRFE 2700CC 16-VALVE DOHC EFI... when do they need changed?

JayQQ97 said:
did you have any issues breaking them free for the first time?
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no not bad, they had a slight tightness initially but came out no problem definetly an easy and doable DIY, i would'nt be concerned about having to wrestle or possibly break a spark getting them out. the plugs are pre-gapped and have a stout cardboard protective cover on the threaded electrode area so they should be fine to RR the plugs, its recommended no to regap Iridium plugs because it may strip off some of the electrode s iridium metal that coats the electrode off of it. Hand thread them back in to start and torque to 15 ft/pds.
 
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We always use a little never-sieze on the plug theads...it's just smart when you have aluminum heads to prevent galvanic action, if the plugs are left in there too long. As far as the gap...depends on the type plug electrodes, yeah some do not require it. I can tell you all first gen tacoma's, and tundra plugs needed the gap checked.
 
tacojoel said:
We always use a little never-sieze on the plug theads...it's just smart when you have aluminum heads to prevent galvanic action, if the plugs are left in there too long. As far as the gap...depends on the type plug electrodes, yeah some do not require it. I can tell you all first gen tacoma's, and tundra plugs needed the gap checked.
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the 1st GENs used copper core twin electrode that can be checked/adjusted to proper gap, iridiums can be damaged by regapping if not properly done it could strip some of that prescious expensive metal from the electrodes ruining the plug, not worth it.
https://www.denso-am.eu/news/20180315_f2_spark-plug-frequently-asked-questions
 
I've seen enough iridium plugs over my time that were improperly gapped needing to be adjusted. Not all are perfect. Every once in awhile you'll run into this. You really should check them first if they appear off.
 
I always used a thin stripe of the permatex aluminum paste stuff on the threads. Do not over gob this stuff on, or you'll wind up with engine misfires if it gets on the electrode. Next time you change the plugs, they will come out smoothly without buggering the threads if you have aluminum heads.
 
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FWIW, I use the copper based anti-seize between the steel plug and the aluminum block.

Only need a small stripe on one side of the threads. Don't go all Rembrandt. It will spread into all the threads as the plug is screwed in.
 
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