clunking backing up incline!

JayQQ97

MW surVivor ... clutched. 355k on the 0D0
'11 Tacoma single cab automatic 4cyl

This just started today... but a weird rattle has been going on for a couple weeks that has been concerning!

Today after running errands I backed it up into driveway, it started this clank clunk clank while moving backwards.
Stopped, put into drive and went forward down the incline, no noticeable clunk or clank
Back into reverse we go and backed up the short incline and clank clunk clank.

What is this noise?

I found on the interwebs that a possibility is the ujoints/driveshaft should be retorqued at regular intervals
Is this true? Do you do this or have it done at service intervals?

Or what else could this noise be!?
I also found something about the brakes are doing this? I did not have the brakes on whilst backing up LOL
 
Found this...
I cannot say this is the exact noise that has been occuring, but perhaps it is


Sometimes bumps in the road set it ablaze
But I was thinking it was that rotted front skid that was vibrating
Until I was backing it up today.
 
how many grease fitting are on these shafts?


front prop shaft

1670685851968.png

rear prop shaft

1670685899404.png
 
truck does not have center bearing assembly

torque specs?

65 foot pound = 88.14 newton meters.
 
found this...

Manufacturer recommended services at 65,000 Miles​

DRAIN & REFILL​

  • Engine Oil

INSPECT​

  • Brake System
  • CV Joint Boot
  • Drum Brakes
  • Engine Air Filter Element
  • Floor Mat
  • Steering Linkage
  • Suspension Ball Joint
  • Vehicle Fluid Levels

LUBRICATE​

  • Driveshaft U-Joint

REPLACE​

  • Engine Oil Filter

ROTATE​

  • Tires

TORQUE​

  • Body Fasteners
  • Driveshaft Flange Yoke
 
Most probable is the U-joints need to be replaced. Its not a hard service, but it does involve dropping the drive shaft and a bit of press assembly.

The best path to discover how many joints you have that need lube is to crawl under the truck to inspect each joint for a zerk fitting.

While under there examine each joint for any type of play or looseness. If any is found, then replace. If one needs replacing, then just do all of the U-joints.

If you can do the work yourself, the parts are about $100.

Roughly 18 months ago, I replaced all 5 U-joints and Carrier Bearing on my truck around 110,xxx miles. Used Dana/Spicer U-joints w/zerks and the carrier bearing. Now, each joint gets a pump or 2 of grease at each oil change. IIRC, all in the cost was about $130.

FWIW, 65 ft-lb seems high for these bolts. They do not have a large body diameter. Remember, torque values refer to the body diameter of the bolt, NOT the hex size.
 
Ujoints need replaced at less than 70k miles??

Would this be from improper lubing greasing the joints?
 
it could be an unbalanced prop shaft for all i even know!
if so, not sure why it did not start acting up like this soon after i made mods to it
 
Not likely a balance issue on the prop shaft. Any imbalance there would make a horrible vibration at highway speeds. Backing up a driveway isn't likely done at highway speeds. Low speed, slow rotation is typical in reverse.

U-joints can fail for any number of reasons. No lube, dirty/gritty environment, alignment, overloading, too much angular travel, modified suspension.......

If they are shot, then they are shot......reason don't matter too much. Although, suspension mods can have a big impact on the U-joints.

I was running grain to the elevator for Dad-in-Law a few years back. The truck was an F150 with an Oldsmobile engine. It had a gravity box fitted in the bed and 2 grain wagons in tow. Poor truck wouldn't make but about 20 mph in plow gear with the wagons snaking around. Weighed in at the elevator with a little over 22,000 lbs. On the fourth trip, the front U-joint decided it had enough then jumped out. Prop shaft speared into the gravel road......I hoofed it back to the farm. DIL was surprised, he expected the U-joints to last longer........that was the 15th trip to the elevator on that rig. Towed the grain train back, replaced the U-joints and were hauling the next day with the same rig.
 
some other research on the interWebs said this could also be the front brake pads moving around loosey goosey per design
 
it has also been making this chatter in drive going 30-40 mph and is usually triggered after going over bump in road for a bit and then settles down
this was just the first time noticed whilst in reverse backing up a long way, longer than backing out of a parking lot stall
 
All the interweb research will not replace crawling under the truck to inspect the U-joints....................

Do as you will.
 
I tried crawling underneath yesterday and hit my head on the stupid muffler! Couldn't reach a thing!
there is so little clearance under on this gen2 4x4, my gen1 has adequate clearance at stock height
 
Interesting... You must be a very large man.

My Gen2 4x4 on stock suspension has a good 12+ inches between the under carriage and the ground. I use a large piece of cardboard for a creeper. Its low profile, disposable and insulates the cold pavement.

Oh well, Don't matter none. You won't be able accurately diagnose the problem without putting hands on the area. The internet is good for general information, Its also good for poor information.

In short, you'll have to put hands on it or hire a mechanic to put their hands on it.
 
Interesting... You must be a very large man.

My Gen2 4x4 on stock suspension has a good 12+ inches between the under carriage and the ground. I use a large piece of cardboard for a creeper. Its low profile, disposable and insulates the cold pavement.

Oh well, Don't matter none. You won't be able accurately diagnose the problem without putting hands on the area. The internet is good for general information, Its also good for poor information.

In short, you'll have to put hands on it or hire a mechanic to put their hands on it.
not a petite man for sure! nor a lanky slim jim, just average that could use some GOLO if that stuff even works LOL
perhaps broad shoulders?? that i kept getting stuck trying to get underneath without raising the vehicle at all
do the single cab Gen2 have less clearance than the other trim models, extended cab and double cabs
cardboard would not help with me having to squirm underneath, i need the friction of the pavement to wiggle under on my shoulder like a squirming snake

this noise does NOT pop up ALL the time, just once in awhile
i need to found useful info on what the front brakes moving around might have to do with this if anything

maybe its just the loosey goosey crossmember undercover that rotted out in a corner that is under maintenance right now waiting for a new plate + much warmer weather to clean and treat the area found behind there
 
Last edited:
this odd clunky noise has not really been an issue over the past week
its very strange to just disappear like this!
did it self-heal ??
 
I have not really heard this noise over the past two months
Perhaps it fixed itself, self healed?
IDK
Maybe it just moved to the engine compartment because that is chattering as all heck especially on cold morning startups
 
Best way for you to solve the clunking noise when in reverse is to not back up the driveway.

Problem solved.
 
Back
Top