Clunking jerky feeling whilst shifting from P to R to D

JayQQ97 said:
the Ujoints on my '97 were checked as A0K! yesterday at 295k at the certified tranny shop
but i have not a clue how they checked them :confused:
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Pretty easy, just grab the driveshaft and try to turn it. You should'nt see any play in the u-joint. Its possible your differential has too much backlash due to wear between the ring, and pinion gears.
 
what kinda growly sound would that make??
my ears are always open and alert
tacojoel said:
Pretty easy, just grab the driveshaft and try to turn it. You should'nt see any play in the u-joint. Its possible your differential has too much backlash due to wear between the ring, and pinion gears.
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Well......someone should start crawling around the truck to check things like engine mounts, tranny mounts, clutch, u-joints, UCB, LCB, suspension bushings, tie rods, struts, leaf springs, shocks, body mounts........

You can talk and chew on the issues until a failure occurs or you can take a pro-active role to begin troubleshooting and diagnostic work. Then fix the problems. Eventually a failure will occur to likely leave you stranded on the road. Then you will have a formal introduction to Mr Murphy, the author of Muphy's Law.

Any vehicle with 250+ kmiles will have worn out parts needing replacement. Parts do not last forever, no matter who makes the part.

I am a bit confused. I was under the impression that your truck has an MT. This thread seems to refer to an AT. Are you trying to service 2 trucks??
 
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this '11 taco is my relatives and is a 4cyl Auto 4wd with almost 70k miles they bot new from Minnesota 12yrs ago

i don't know anything about that parking pawl mentioned previously, i need to do some research onit
because the clunking happens and then it does not happen, on a hill on a level surface
maybe its normal maybe its not idk!

there are rattles and vibes popping up all over the place on this truck!!
 
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FWIW.......the parking pawl is deep inside the AT. Not a likely cause.

A suggestion. Work thru the easy more probable problem sources first. It is unlikely that the most complex cause is the problem source. Many times the fix is not complex.

Example. Say a truck gets a flat tire. You could assume the tire/rim assembly is no good. Or you could check the tire for a puncture. It is more likely to have a puncture than to have a failed tire/rim assembly.

Another example: The engine begins to misfire. You could assume the entire ignition system has failed. Or you could check the sparkplugs for burnt electrode.

My point, don't leap to the most complex cause as a first action.

I have said before AT are very robust mechanisms with few failures. I know you disagree, but facts are hard to dispute. I suspect the source of the "clunk" is not in the automatic transmission.

You say the U-joints have been verified as good. So, look to other points like engine mounts, transmission mounts........
 
Ujoints not 'professionally' checked on the '11

last fall when i managed to hobble under to look at any odd rust developing and looking at the Ujoints on the propeller shaft i pumped some new grease in them, which was probably the very first time new grease was ever put into these joints... the stuff i pushed out had the consistency of chocolate milk almost!
i can't recall if i was able to access the front shaft to see whats going on up front there
 
is it COMMON for the engine and transmission mounts to GO BAD on a Gen2 that is only 12yrs old?
 
Ok....... need to be clear and concise.

The U-joints that you lubed, were they on your relatives '11 Gen2? If so, any milky (water) lube comes out when pumping in new grease is an indication that water is invaded the joint and rust has likely developed inside the joint. A wise person would replace that U-joint at a minimum. A thorough person would replace all the U-joints at the same time.

Engine mounts or trans mounts can fail for a number of reasons. Generally, the rubber in the mount fails due to age, heat, spilled fluids in contact, accidents........

Might need to focus on the mechanicals and pay less attention to the rust until the truck is in good running condition.
 
Rock62 said:
Ok....... need to be clear and concise.

The U-joints that you lubed, were they on your relatives '11 Gen2? If so, any milky (water) lube comes out when pumping in new grease is an indication that water is invaded the joint and rust has likely developed inside the joint. A wise person would replace that U-joint at a minimum. A thorough person would replace all the U-joints at the same time.

Engine mounts or trans mounts can fail for a number of reasons. Generally, the rubber in the mount fails due to age, heat, spilled fluids in contact, accidents........

Might need to focus on the mechanicals and pay less attention to the rust until the truck is in good running condition.
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yes those Ujoint on the relatives '11 were quite runny coming out, definitely NOT as tacky as the new red tacky going in

now i am very concerned, they always took this truck in routinely every 5k miles to the dealer for OCI service + checkups
are they NOT supposed to put new grease in these joints somewhat on a routine interval? flush any water and contaminants out?
 
JayQQ97 said:
yes those Ujoint on the relatives '11 were quite runny coming out, definitely NOT as tacky as the new red tacky going in

now i am very concerned, they always took this truck in routinely every 5k miles to the dealer for OCI service + checkups
are they NOT supposed to put new grease in these joints somewhat on a routine interval? flush any water and contaminants out?
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Entirely dependent on the work order.

Typically, if the customer brings in for an Oil Change......that is all they get. The "Check ups" are looking at brakes, tires, battery, belts, wipers, cabin filter, air filter..........it is an upsell technique.


If that '11 Gen2 were mine, I'd be looking to replace all the U-joints. Part wise (from RockAuto) its about $20/u-joint to purchase Dana/Spicer joints with the zerk in the end cap. I'd replace the carrier beating too for an additional $40.
 
I am not aware if single cab has any carrier bearing in the middle of propeller shaft! I didn't notice one
 
JayQQ97 said:
yes those Ujoint on the relatives '11 were quite runny coming out, definitely NOT as tacky as the new red tacky going in

now i am very concerned, they always took this truck in routinely every 5k miles to the dealer for OCI service + checkups
are they NOT supposed to put new grease in these joints somewhat on a routine interval? flush any water and contaminants out?
Click to expand...
If water got into the u-joints then it's a good chance it got into the differential also. I'd be checking the quality of the gear oil in there if milky looking or not. You don't want to see excessive backlash in that rear pinion, and ring gear either...that alone can give you a good clunk every time you put it in gear. They tend to get worse over time.
 
JayQQ97 said:
I am not aware if single cab has any carrier bearing in the middle of propeller shaft! I didn't notice one
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How many U-joints on the rear propellor shaft? If 3, then carrier bearing. If 2, then no carrier bearing. Simple.
Front propellor shaft has 2 U-joints.
 
i recently saw a jeep on the i80 in the breakdown lane

the driveshaft looked to be laying upon the ground, completely broke off!
 
How do I know if my drive shaft yoke is bad?


Signs of a bad driveshaft/drivetrain
  1. Vibrations from under the vehicle. A common symptom of a failing driveshaft is an intense shaking coming from underneath the vehicle. ...
  2. Difficulty turning. ...
  3. Loud clunking noise. ...
  4. Car shudders upon acceleration. ...
  5. Squeaking noise. ...
  6. Clicking or knocking noise.
 
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