Undercoating

I've heard a blend of Calcium Chloride and sand is used. Supposedly works to -15F.

Road salt is just unpurified from of rock salt,,,,,,,table salt. Sodium Chloride.

Table salt is finely ground, cleaned with other agents added such as Iodine and anti-caking
 
I can't say. I don't live or drive in Canada. MN has temperatures very similar to IA and WI.

Remember, this is a chemical reaction. Chemical reactions are not sensitive to Wind Chill.
 
I saw Minnesota can get to 40 below zero, but that's way north of Minneapolis and away from the lake sup
Ima gonna get that old taco up there one winter to get me some of that bitter brutal cold and do some ice fishy fishy
 
You can always find an outlying example. Compare Record low/high temperatures to the Average low/high temperatures.

The Averages paint a common picture. The Record paints the possible extremes.
 
too much hype on this FF product, i continue to see it everywhere out there on the interWebs, its like they are getting kickBacks to promote it!?
California knows nothing about the struggle...
 
I know the california snowflakes are pushing FF due to environmental concerns being lanolin based, its safer for the environment than cosmoline which is labeled cancer causing to some. Shops here make a constant year to year living off FF, as they have built a customer base that keeps returning once, or twice a year for a respray. If they used a cosmoline product they have to find another profitable way to stay in business.
 
i am anxious to take a peek underneath the '11 taco to check on the BOEshield sprayed on the painted spare wheel
its been run through a bit of elevated expressway salt and perhaps a little dirty. a warm(ish) day needed to hobble underneath it all and snap the pic



this is an interesting application for it, i did the FF on brake lines in the engine bay but wow did it get grimy diirty
For use on engines, apply T-9 when the engine is warm but not running. Allow a few hours to dry before restarting to make sure the propellent has evaporated completely.

boeshield.com

Boeshield T-9® | Corrosion Protection and Waterproof Lubrication

A multipurpose spray that provides superior corrosion protection, waterproof lubrication, and moisture displacement. Developed by the Boeing Company.
boeshield.com
 
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Seems everyone has some kind of corrosion inhibiter product out there lately. Fluid flim has probably been the longest.
 
a random uTube comment here
it gave me pause to raise an eyebrow to give a thought

@kyleritchie7904​

11 hours ago (edited)
all the companies realized how bad their rusting out fenders looked in ~'02-08. Especially with people driving those vehicles around another 4-5 years once that metal started to get eaten (5 years of free advertising that says "this product sucks"). So now they dealt with the body panel issue (what people see) and probably cheaped out on the underbody to compensate
emoji_u1f644.png
 
O that is hilarious. Nothing like clear writing and expression.

These people never had the pleasure of owning a car made in the 60s and 70s. Rust thru would occur within about 2 years......3 if you were pro-active to flush out the ice pack in the wheel wells.

The common rust areas: dogleg behind front wheels, rocker panels, rear fender behind rear wheel, lower door sections Today, people bitch if they see a rust spot on a 8 year old ride. In truth, the automotive industry has made significant strides in rust prevention.

Example. My '06 has lived in IA all its life. IA uses salt, brine, sand...all sorts of ice removal products on roads. The body is showing very minimal signs of rust (some spotting on rear bumper) after 16 years. Yes, the frame was replaced on the frame recall in '08 after 12 seasons of exposure to the IA winter road conditions. I consider this pretty darn good.

LIke I've said......Clean and Dry is a very effective defense against rust.
 
Rock62 said:
O that is hilarious. Nothing like clear writing and expression.

These people never had the pleasure of owning a car made in the 60s and 70s. Rust thru would occur within about 2 years......3 if you were pro-active to flush out the ice pack in the wheel wells.

The common rust areas: dogleg behind front wheels, rocker panels, rear fender behind rear wheel, lower door sections Today, people bitch if they see a rust spot on a 8 year old ride. In truth, the automotive industry has made significant strides in rust prevention.

Example. My '06 has lived in IA all its life. IA uses salt, brine, sand...all sorts of ice removal products on roads. The body is showing very minimal signs of rust (some spotting on rear bumper) after 16 years. Yes, the frame was replaced on the frame recall in '08 after 12 seasons of exposure to the IA winter road conditions. I consider this pretty darn good.

LIke I've said......Clean and Dry is a very effective defense against rust.
Click to expand...
Back in the 70's you'd get rust bubbling through in 5 years at every welded body seam. By 7 years your fenders were flapping in the wind if they didn't fall off first. I had to scrap my 63 327 chevy impala. By 1973 the frame broke in half causing the car itself to break in half by the rear windshield. Even my 66 gto rotted out pretty good by 1975, and those cars had thicker steel sheet metal, not like the thin beer can steel they use now.
Heck, i've seen older f-150's and ram 1500 not even that old with rotted out rocker panels, and rear beds.
 
Ahhh.....the memories or horrors of my first car.

It was a '63 Buick Skylark Coupe. I became owner in '76. At that time, it had serious body cancer. Floor boards were lattice, water spray from the wheels would enter during rain. I would roll down windows when driving on gravel roads to allow the dust an escape. It was a friendly car, every fender waved at other cars and people. Winter driving was a fresh experience. Hit a pothole in January which caused the driver's window to drop inside the door. bang fooomph.

That poor car leaked every fluid. Dad asked me to park in different spots on our gravel driveway because the car was making a mess. Couldn't fill the gas tank above 1/2, if so, it would leak down to 1/2. It would go thru a quart of oil every 10-14 days not burning, just leaking. I was in high school, couldn't afford that cost, so I'd get used oil from gas stations to top up. Eventually, it tossed a rod thru the block, I drove it for 4 more days after removing the spark plug for that cylinder, then Dad stepped in. I went back on my bicycle........

I never will forget that car. It was loaded with personality.

Capture.PNG
 
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how do ya keep 'er dry when you're wheeling thru liquid salt for hours in and out behind truck traffic that hose you down everytime they pass by

Rock62 said:
LIke I've said......Clean and Dry is a very effective defense against rust.
Click to expand...
 
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