wheel bearings...

i am most curious now, after watching Timmy the Toolman tutorial on this
did those joker monkeys at the 4x4 shop install the front bearing on my rig backWards ???
and why it is still having a slight wobble over a year later now ?

its at 26 minutes...
 
now have 10k miles on that 3rd driver front wheel bearing that became seriously roached after 100k miles
the wobble became more than just slight o_O
 
What do you expect with lots of miles driving 60 mph or higher. Wheel bearings are prone to take a dump sooner or later. My guess it can be other issues accelerating the problem like heavier tires than the stock weight, or just plain worn out drivetrain, and front end components.
 
they were previously installed improperly at some hack shop that originally used some janky china bearing
this time the dealer did it with my OEM parts because i was not prepared with a whole new assembly ready to just bolt off bolt on
it was on the todo list but had not yet gotten to it
 
passenger side bearing is still ok afaik at 340k miles

i did have some beefier tires for a spell on the original factory driver bearing that started making noisy around 180k(ish), the goodYear duraTracs put on at 113k miles
 
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Sorry, I agree with @tacojoel. Its likely played out suspension components.

Also why did you just replace one side? Does the other side have less miles on it?

FWIW, I just replaced the front wheel bearing on my '06. Easy task using front hub assemblies. The front hub assembly can not be installed backwards.
 
Sorry, I agree with @tacojoel. Its likely played out suspension components.

Also why did you just replace one side? Does the other side have less miles on it? Generally, it is good practice to replace suspension components on Both sides SIMULTANEOUSLY.

FWIW, I just replaced the front wheel bearings on my '06. Easy task using front hub assemblies. The front hub assembly can not be installed backwards.
 
the knuckles on this truck are a whole different animal than the Gen2 seem to be

no assemblies

timmy the toolman has an A+ uTube on what is all involved
 
Any play at the 12 & 6 positions indicates worn UBJ or LBJ, not wheel bearings. The way to check wheel bearings is to remover the wheel, spin the hub by hand, feeling for anything other than smooth rotation. Any notching, grinding, roughness.....is cause for replacement. These are indicate the bearing will be failing soon.

Wheel bearings begin with a low frequency hum. Most evident at highway speeds and turning maneuvers like lane changes.

Typically, rolling element bearings (wheel bearings) don't knock. They make metallic grinding noise when they are in extremely bad condition. Eventually, the bearing will build enough heat to weld itself together leading to a wheel lock up.
 
Rock62 said:
Sorry, I agree with @tacojoel. Its likely played out suspension components.

Also why did you just replace one side? Does the other side have less miles on it? Generally, it is good practice to replace suspension components on Both sides SIMULTANEOUSLY.

FWIW, I just replaced the front wheel bearings on my '06. Easy task using front hub assemblies. The front hub assembly can not be installed backwards.
Click to expand...
Reminds me of a farmer I use to help part time. He had a number of old farm tractors, and equipment. Could remember one day a u-joint broke on one of the older trucks....it was the one at the differential, yet the front one was nearly as bad. He ended up putting a couple used bearing caps hanging around on the existing battered u-joint, and called it fixed, good to go, instead of replacing both u-joints with new ones.
 
Yeah. Farmer's have a mindset focusing on crop or livestock first. The equipment needs to work long enough to get the task completed.

They would rather spend 30 minutes with a bandaid repair than 1 hour for a permanent repair. Yet, they will make the same 30 minute bandaid repair multiple times.
 
the left front wheel was knocking at the 12 n' 6 that i was told was the hub moving inside the bearing somehow someway and it needed a new hub along with the wheel bearing and seal

timmy toolman also has an A+ video demonstrating this
did U not watch this?


bearing and hub replaced and the slight knocking stopped upon checking it
 
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now that i think about it when i had both the front wheels off last month to 'fix and inspect' a hackjobber i did try to rotate the passenger hub and there was some drag but i thought it to perhaps be the brakes calipers that was hanging it up
but IDK... just an amateur here at best
 
I have no need to watch Timmy.

Something to consider. if the wheel bearing fails at 12 & 6, it will also fail at 9 & 3.

Old school 12 & 6 is UBJ/LBJ check for play. 9 & 3 is check for tie rod play. ROTATION is check for a wheel bearing.

But I know Timmy is a God to some. To me, he is just another guy with a camera posting stuff that may or may not be correct.
 
that is an interesting point to consider about the 9 & 3
i could not get any knocking to occur doing that like it was at 12 & 6
 
I also did get a new LBJ put on that driver side with the new bearing and hub for safety
then they noted the UBJ had no play init even though i wanted a new one put in since it was all apart already to cut costs
 
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