brake drum gasket?

Scott Wyman said:
Hopefully that gasket will making removal easier after the next 110k miles.:D
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it's stucken stubborn elsewhere too! Around the outer edges
I did put antiseize around the hub area that the gasket doesn't touch on the lip
Now I must order up a bunch of new parts for the handbrake and tear it all out
Not sure how it got all that rusty crusty inside there :oops:
 
....
Napa knowHow has brakleen crc brand on monthly sale
4$ marked down from 6+
I bot a case LOL
Works well as a weed killer
 
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Scott Wyman said:
Hopefully that gasket will making removal easier after the next 110k miles.:D
Click to expand...

after checking the carFax i must update that 110k to 137k miles since the drums were last off the rig to powdercoat for aesthetics
i have not yet been able to find if i took a pic then of the internals to compare that bellcrank lever mechanism to see if it was all that crusty then getting stuck or if just happened over the past several years

'97 rear drums powdercoatD crppD.jpg
 
i sure could use some good assistance xtra hand in removing that fuel tank! then reinstall somehow after project done
are you available anybody?
it would save the hassle of one or two tows to monkeyshop
 
JayQQ97 said:
I have done a good amount of searching on the interwebs and come up blanks so far
and Yet the parts diagram shows my rig as having a gasket in the rear drum area :eek:
With a part# even
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I queried to timmy the toolman Toyota time YouTube presentation and he also was curious about this gasket and none of the numerous rigs he's done the brake drums has ever had this paper gasket on there
 
next up will be attempting to remove this drum on the passenger side that is likely seized on there as well :mad:

DT Tire Rotation June ~ 4.jpg
 
Ok, here's what's going on;

If you look at the brake drum, there will be a band of rust at the edge of the working surface. When you try to pull the drum off, the shoes will get caught on it, making removal exceedingly difficult. You want to make sure to hit that rust lip with a disk grinder (sandpaper pad) before reassembling.

The "sticky brakes" problem isn't in the brake itself. Its because of the cable ends. If you look at the brake cables where they bolt onto the back of the brake, you will see that the end of the cable has an aluminum bracket. That aluminum bracket will be corroded on the inside, and possible collapsed and/or snapped off part way.

Now if you happen to have stuck brakes because of this, best way to get them unstuck is to hit the hydraulic brakes real hard a few times. In the worst case, do this AS you're trying to rock the vehicle gently. The pressure from the hydraulic brakes will pull the cable back in.

That "gasket" is irrelevant.
 
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lbdroidman said:
Ok, here's what's going on;

If you look at the brake drum, there will be a band of rust at the edge of the working surface. When you try to pull the drum off, the shoes will get caught on it, making removal exceedingly difficult. You want to make sure to hit that rust lip with a disk grinder (sandpaper pad) before reassembling.

The "sticky brakes" problem isn't in the brake itself. Its because of the cable ends. If you look at the brake cables where they bolt onto the back of the brake, you will see that the end of the cable has an aluminum bracket. That aluminum bracket will be corroded on the inside, and possible collapsed and/or snapped off part way.

Now if you happen to have stuck brakes because of this, best way to get them unstuck is to hit the hydraulic brakes real hard a few times. In the worst case, do this AS you're trying to rock the vehicle gently. The pressure from the hydraulic brakes will pull the cable back in.

That "gasket" is irrelevant.
Click to expand...
I shall Have to look deeper into it when I get the other drum off
 
lbdroidman said:
Ok, here's what's going on;

If you look at the brake drum, there will be a band of rust at the edge of the working surface. When you try to pull the drum off, the shoes will get caught on it, making removal exceedingly difficult. You want to make sure to hit that rust lip with a disk grinder (sandpaper pad) before reassembling.

The "sticky brakes" problem isn't in the brake itself. Its because of the cable ends. If you look at the brake cables where they bolt onto the back of the brake, you will see that the end of the cable has an aluminum bracket. That aluminum bracket will be corroded on the inside, and possible collapsed and/or snapped off part way.

Now if you happen to have stuck brakes because of this, best way to get them unstuck is to hit the hydraulic brakes real hard a few times. In the worst case, do this AS you're trying to rock the vehicle gently. The pressure from the hydraulic brakes will pull the cable back in.

That "gasket" is irrelevant.
Click to expand...
Helps also to back off on the brake shoe adjuster before trying to pull the rear drums.
 
tacojoel said:
Helps also to back off on the brake shoe adjuster before trying to pull the rear drums.
Click to expand...
It's an extremely tight spot to get inside there with two hand tools without vEhicle sufficiently elevated off the ground!
 
lbdroidman said:
Ok, here's what's going on;

If you look at the brake drum, there will be a band of rust at the edge of the working surface. When you try to pull the drum off, the shoes will get caught on it, making removal exceedingly difficult. You want to make sure to hit that rust lip with a disk grinder (sandpaper pad) before reassembling.

The "sticky brakes" problem isn't in the brake itself. Its because of the cable ends. If you look at the brake cables where they bolt onto the back of the brake, you will see that the end of the cable has an aluminum bracket. That aluminum bracket will be corroded on the inside, and possible collapsed and/or snapped off part way.

Now if you happen to have stuck brakes because of this, best way to get them unstuck is to hit the hydraulic brakes real hard a few times. In the worst case, do this AS you're trying to rock the vehicle gently. The pressure from the hydraulic brakes will pull the cable back in.

That "gasket" is irrelevant.
Click to expand...

part 47628 on the diagram for the aluminum bracket getting for the sticky?
upload_2022-8-4_15-20-13.png
 
tacojoel said:
Helps also to back off on the brake shoe adjuster before trying to pull the rear drums.
Click to expand...

the Toyota dealer tech that advised me the truck had some sticky/crusty handbrake mechanism back in the drums and wanted to get inside there to clean, lube and adjust/inspect stuff stated he tried EVERYTHING to get the drums off.
when i had a go at it in driveway the little rubber oval plug that gives access to that adjuster wheel appeared to still have a thin layer of dried sealant onit that i was using to clean up the drum backing plates.
its like he NEVER touched that thing to back off the shoes, nothing had been disturbed
and he tried EVERYTHING...
 
JayQQ97 said:
the Toyota dealer tech that advised me the truck had some sticky/crusty handbrake mechanism back in the drums and wanted to get inside there to clean, lube and adjust/inspect stuff stated he tried EVERYTHING to get the drums off.
when i had a go at it in driveway the little rubber oval plug that gives access to that adjuster wheel appeared to still have a thin layer of dried sealant onit that i was using to clean up the drum backing plates.
its like he NEVER touched that thing to back off the shoes, nothing had been disturbed
and he tried EVERYTHING...
Click to expand...
Must of been his first big job.
 
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