Steering rack bushings maintenance....

[Rock62]

FWIW. I would suspect the lighter gauge steel on the front skid was for a couple reasons.

1.) Reduce weight to help meet the Federal Fleet Fuel mileage requirements. My stock truck tips the scales above 4000 lbs. It takes fuel to move the weight down the road.
2.) Reduce cost to manufacture the part. Likely a side benefit to meeting the Fed requirements.


12 years without maintenance.....yeah, I'd expect the bolts to be difficult to remove.

Shoot, I've got a couple of bed bolts that have only been in since 2018 (frame replacement recall) that reject any attempt to loosen them. They've been soaked numerous times with PBBlaster and hit with an air impact wrench. Next step is to attempt with a torch to heat the female threads. Maybe they will break loose so I can install the D-rings at the front of the bed.

 

[tacojoel]

did you use rubber bushing or the poly ones from energy suspension?

i am reading not-so-good things on the poly ones!

I bought them off ebay as tom auto parts bushing kit. They looked made of delrin.

 

[tacojoel]

@JayQQ97

You may need to crawl under the truck to look. There is no way an internet forum can predict the exact situation on your truck.

Sure, bad/worn bushings on the sway bar could allow the bar to bang around. Although, you need to get under your truck to examine.

The front skid on my Gen2 is attached with 2 bolts and a pair of hooks on the front edge. If you are struggling to remove 2 bolts, you may be better served taking the truck to a mechanic and close your eyes to the invoice.

Sorry to be so blunt. Sometimes, you just gotta get dirt on ya OR pay to someone who will get grubby.

I replaced the sway bar links, and bushings in my tundra. They were not cheap. Very easy job though.

 

[JayQQ97]

FWIW. I would suspect the lighter gauge steel on the front skid was for a couple reasons.

1.) Reduce weight to help meet the Federal Fleet Fuel mileage requirements. My stock truck tips the scales above 4000 lbs. It takes fuel to move the weight down the road.
2.) Reduce cost to manufacture the part. Likely a side benefit to meeting the Fed requirements

12 years without maintenance.....yeah, I'd expect the bolts to be difficult to remove.

Shoot, I've got a couple of bed bolts that have only been in since 2018 (frame replacement recall) that reject any attempt to loosen them. They've been soaked numerous times with PBBlaster and hit with an air impact wrench. Next step is to attempt with a torch to heat the female threads. Maybe they will break loose so I can install the D-rings at the front of the bed.

its a 4 cylinder regular cab regularly serviced by the dealer until a couple years ago with just 67k miles
i have no clue what they would ever need to take that plate off to do maintenance on?
on my rig its necessary to remove the front plate in order to change the oil filter unless you improvise and have long arm or take the front wheel off!

 

[JayQQ97]

Shoot, I've got a couple of bed bolts that have only been in since 2018 (frame replacement recall) that reject any attempt to loosen them. They've been soaked numerous times with PBBlaster and hit with an air impact wrench. Next step is to attempt with a torch to heat the female threads. Maybe they will break loose so I can install the D-rings at the front of the bed.

do you think they epoxied those bed bolts on you?
4 or 5 years they should be able to be removed somewhat easily, or so i would think

 

[Rock62]

do you think they epoxied those bed bolts on you?
4 or 5 years they should be able to be removed somewhat easily, or so i would think

That would require me to make a guess.

I suspect either rust or a high strength thread locker or excessive torque. Either way, them bolts are being extremely stubborn. I know heat will loosen rust and the high strength thread locker and ease excessive torque.

Yeah, I assumed the same about the bolts being in for 4-5 years should be relatively easy.......but..........

 

[JayQQ97]

what dealer shop did the frame replacement?

That would require me to make a guess.

I suspect either rust or a high strength thread locker or excessive torque. Either way, them bolts are being extremely stubborn. I know heat will loosen rust and the high strength thread locker and ease excessive torque.

Yeah, I assumed the same about the bolts being in for 4-5 years should be relatively easy.......but..........

 

[Rock62]

Don't know. I suspect it was a Toyota dealership near Des Moines.

I asked the local Toyota dealer if they could loosen. They tried but were not successful. They said they could loosen with more aggressive effort. This is an absolute last resort to spend the $$ for Toyota to loosen. Gotta pay for their labor.

 

[JayQQ97]

enough room under for a cut-off tool to work?

 

[Rock62]

Umm.....no. That would require cutting the frame............... Impact gun and torch is the path.

 

[tacojoel]

Those racks are pretty played out at 150k miles. I couldn't believe how much play was in my old tundra one that had serious holes rotted in it. It was due to be replaced anyways. New rack, bushings, lines, and tie rods, it was like a new truck but about $1400 poor.

 

[JayQQ97]

Those racks are pretty played out at 150k miles. I couldn't believe how much play was in my old tundra one that had serious holes rotted in it. It was due to be replaced anyways. New rack, bushings, lines, and tie rods, it was like a new truck but about $1400 poor.

So I should be able to get buried under by the rack and be able to push up onit to see how bad bushing mounts are if they ate?

Could it be the source of the clunking and banging

 

[tacojoel]

With the truck on jack stands, crawling under it, you'll be able to see the amount of play when you have someone crank the steering wheel back and forth. You'll see the rack move around in the bushings. I had excessive play in the rack itself...the steering wheel itself was sloppy.

 

[Rock62]

Same for checking ball joints. The wheels must be off the ground.

Many, many How-To videos for proper procedure. Basically, you do not move the entire assembly. You need to isolate the joint and try to separate the joining parts. Any play in the joints is not acceptable.

 

[JayQQ97]

i think i shall have to buy a new slim wrench for the inner tie rod nut
its a real tight fit for 2 wrenches i have viewed

 

[tacojoel]

i think i shall have to buy a new slim wrench for the inner tie rod nut
its a real tight fit for 2 wrenches i have viewed

If you an old wrench, just grind it down till it fits. I've made a few custom wrench's that way.

 

[JayQQ97]

If you an old wrench, just grind it down till it fits. I've made a few custom wrench's that way.

i've viewed that could also work
suppose it depends on the price of the proper tool
snap-on brand?!?

 

[Rock62]

Geeesh.....if your gonna butcher up a wrench....just get a cheapie from Harbor Freight. No sense to hack up a high $$$ Snap-On ---Fall Off tool.

 

[JayQQ97]

different wrenches needed are at 13 minute mark
42mm is a biggie

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006MHEAUQ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B006MHEAUQ&linkCode=as2&tag=timmythetoolm-20&linkId=95ab0f3a4c9b249875e070220abfec9c

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006MHEAJW/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B006MHEAJW&linkCode=as2&tag=timmythetoolm-20&linkId=60f0dff508c7ac8abc0637d6398f4af9&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0021URPB4/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B0021URPB4&linkCode=as2&tag=timmythetoolm-20&linkId=734570d0a56f59f517bfdc2694081eee

 

[JayQQ97]

i shall have to inspect the inner tierod loaner tool kits from O'Reillys

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/evertough/tools---equipment/rental-tools/tie-rods---pitman-arms-rental-tools/5a82e3c68227/rental-tools-evertough-tie-rod-tool/ren1/67178