oil pan leaking??

JayQQ97 said:
ya i would assume that the trained techs there would know that over a long period of time the cooling system under pressure will seep little bits of coolant between the hose and clamp and dry crusty
rinse and repeat this cycle over decades and 100s of thousand of miles and the buildup will have grown big enough underneath that hose that the coolant under pressure will find the channel of least resistance and start leaking underneath the constant tension hose clamp. this is with the condition that the hose has NOT ever been removed/replaced

so it befuddles i that when i decided to treat the taco to a complete coolant exchange (clean it ALL out) after 22 years that they failed to remove the hoses and clean underneath and or recommend new hoses altogether

a competent 'mechanic' that is more than just a parts changer would know this or so i would think
i was headed out-of-town that day i checked under the hood at the gas station and saw it leaking on the upper, leaking quite a bit, pink stuff blowing everywhere
and had to postpone activities until a new hose ordered on discount came delivered a week later from camelBack Toyota in AZ
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I think their the same guys i ordered a pack of oil filters from for my tacoma.
 
As long as you check your oil level periodically and add extra if necessary, a little oil pan gasket or valve cover leak should not prevent you from driving. However, an oil leak caused by a ruptured oil pan or other serious engine damage will almost always necessitate towing your vehicle.
 
i do check level as a routine
maybe its leaking from the backside of the valve covers?
i stick my finger back there once in awhile after a short cooldown and its sorta wettish by the plug moon things that have not started leaking yet as I've been told they will eventually with burning oil on that back exhaust piping it will SMELL
 
parts changers got back to I with this...

Very minor leak we just want to watch.

so how are U supposed to watch it?
 
there was no mention of the leaking dried pink coolant from that lower hose!!
why O why?
 
i have to replace some weathered bolts and clamps here and there, not many but a few
just hoping that steering rack is ok, a good number of Gen1 out there are seeming to having to replace already for big coin... its a 500$ part new OEM on discount even
 
JayQQ97 said:
i have to replace some weathered bolts and clamps here and there, not many but a few
just hoping that steering rack is ok, a good number of Gen1 out there are seeming to having to replace already for big coin... its a 500$ part new OEM on discount even
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Try twice that for an original toyota steering rack. The replacements made by other manufactures of decent quality were around $500.
 
tacojoel said:
Try twice that for an original toyota steering rack. The replacements made by other manufactures of decent quality were around $500.
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495$ new ... no mention of it being a reman

1995-2004 Toyota Steering Gear 44250-35042 | Toyota Parts

Genuine Factory 1995-2004 Toyota part # 44250-35042 - Steering Gear. Toyota Online Parts is your choice for Toyota Parts and Toyota accessories. We are a factory authorized Toyota Dealer with Toyota parts and Toyota accessories all at wholesale prices for your Tundra, Tacoma, Camry, Corolla...
toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com
 
JayQQ97 said:
495$ new ... no mention of it being a reman

1995-2004 Toyota Steering Gear 44250-35042 | Toyota Parts

Genuine Factory 1995-2004 Toyota part # 44250-35042 - Steering Gear. Toyota Online Parts is your choice for Toyota Parts and Toyota accessories. We are a factory authorized Toyota Dealer with Toyota parts and Toyota accessories all at wholesale prices for your Tundra, Tacoma, Camry, Corolla...
toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com
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Thats a good price. Probably trying to get it out of their stock. I remember kooking for one for my 2001 tundra years ago. Nothing much less than $900 for a toyota rack.
 
JayQQ97 said:
You should see what I'm workin with here
LoL
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I know what you are working with.......

I've owned several vehicles that were worn out with high mileage and spotty maintenance.

There comes a point when the repairs need to begin, or the vehicle needs to be replaced.

My oldest was a 1963 Buick Skylark coupe, I became owner of this fine ride in 1976. It had well over 200 kmiles when I got it. Every fluid had an escape, multiple leaks. Fuel could only be filled to half tank, anything more would leak out. Oil was a temporary fluid, I had little $$ at the time and 2X weekly oil adds were killing my strained budget. So, I turned to used oil for $3/5 gallons. The 5 gallons would last almost 2 months. I was trying to save $$ for the repairs, but the costs were quickly outrunning my earning capacity. Fortuneatly, the Buick made the decision. It tossed a rod thru the side of the block. Funny thing, it continued to run for another 10 days. Ran like crap, but it ran. Dad heard me coming home a few minutes before I arrived. He opened the hood.....looked at me and shook his head. He said, "Call the junkyard. This ol' girl is motarly wounded. Put it out of our misery." My next car was a '71 Buick Electra 225 for my college car, purchased in 1983. This also had 150,000+ miles on the odo. It survived 4 years of college, then it was passed on.

I guess I'm saying you should make a choice to begin repairs or replace it. Stop hunting for problems or perceived issues. Prioritize the most critical repairs first, start on those. Work your way to the minor stuff. Or Replace it.
 
Rock! are you saying you want to trade trucks?
 
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Rock62 said:
I know what you are working with.......

I've owned several vehicles that were worn out with high mileage and spotty maintenance.

There comes a point when the repairs need to begin, or the vehicle needs to be replaced.

My oldest was a 1963 Buick Skylark coupe, I became owner of this fine ride in 1976. It had well over 200 kmiles when I got it. Every fluid had an escape, multiple leaks. Fuel could only be filled to half tank, anything more would leak out. Oil was a temporary fluid, I had little $$ at the time and 2X weekly oil adds were killing my strained budget. So, I turned to used oil for $3/5 gallons. The 5 gallons would last almost 2 months. I was trying to save $$ for the repairs, but the costs were quickly outrunning my earning capacity. Fortuneatly, the Buick made the decision. It tossed a rod thru the side of the block. Funny thing, it continued to run for another 10 days. Ran like crap, but it ran. Dad heard me coming home a few minutes before I arrived. He opened the hood.....looked at me and shook his head. He said, "Call the junkyard. This ol' girl is motarly wounded. Put it out of our misery." My next car was a '71 Buick Electra 225 for my college car, purchased in 1983. This also had 150,000+ miles on the odo. It survived 4 years of college, then it was passed on.

I guess I'm saying you should make a choice to begin repairs or replace it. Stop hunting for problems or perceived issues. Prioritize the most critical repairs first, start on those. Work your way to the minor stuff. Or Replace it.
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Problem is likely insurmountable by now as my tundra became at 19 years. It just wasn't cost effective repairing a vehicle that cost more than it was worth. On top of it the town in this state was assessing the truck for more than it was worth in property tax. It made no sense to keep it. I had no sedimental attachment to it either.
 
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