Task: fuel tank removal -- Gen1 taco

JayQQ97

JayQQ97

MW surVivor ... clutched. 350k on the 0D0
this is the best video i have found so far for attempting this
although it's for a gen3 T4R circa '97 and not a taco
unfortunately, there are quite a few differences between the two :confused:


shooting for May or perhaps June for this belaboured task
 
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Last fuel pump that failed was on my 1986 Toyota 4wd pickup. I changed the fuel filter on my gen1 tundra a couple times, but it was located on the frame rail. These newer trucks have plastic tanks.
This job with all the hidden fasteners, an clips reminds me of what a pita job I did back in the fall on the Honda snowblower I picked up.....lot of little land mines to get you. At least my Honda job was a success. These guys still had the same issue after all the work was done. Biggest thing to come out of this, was a new fuel filter got replaced.
 
There isnt much that holds a fuel tank in a vehicle.

Generally, a couple straps. Then the fuel lines and electric lines for the pump/sending unit. The filler neck can be troublesome.

Depending what you need to do, it may be simpler to remove the bed to access the pump/sending unit from above.

Please, satisfy my curiosity. Why do you need to remove the fuel tank?
 
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Rock62 said:
There isnt much that holds a fuel tank in a vehicle.

Generally, a couple straps. Then the fuel lines and electric lines for the pump/sending unit. The filler neck can be troublesome.

Depending what you need to do, it may be simpler to remove the bed to access the pump/sending unit from above.

Please, satisfy my curiosity. Why do you need to remove the fuel tank?
Click to expand...

yeah, the filler neck may or may not be an issue :confused:
i think there is suitable access with the wheel liner removed to undo the screws (8 of them?) and gasket where both neck tubes go into the tank, i am referencing a parts diagram for that, so that the neck does not need removed from the side panel fill door area and possibly not have to unhook the driveshaft to wiggle the tank down with the neck attached

as far as i know my rig only has ONE strap and the shield/skid plate is NOT as complicated as the same year T4R, i have taken the shield off before to get powderCoated... its just a bit oblong shaped and slightly heavy, but only 4 bolts on there holding it
 
i certainly hope this highPressure hardline will come undone with ease, unlike on the Corolla which was epoxied in somehow!
and the 2 rubber hoses for return and evap


fuel connection under bed tacoma.JPG

Below is the corolla's hiPressure main tube from the pump bracket assy...


fuel main connect.JPG
 
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Rock62 said:
There isnt much that holds a fuel tank in a vehicle.

Generally, a couple straps. Then the fuel lines and electric lines for the pump/sending unit. The filler neck can be troublesome.

Depending what you need to do, it may be simpler to remove the bed to access the pump/sending unit from above.

Please, satisfy my curiosity. Why do you need to remove the fuel tank?
Click to expand...
I did a fuel pump on a chevy astro van. Had to cut open the floor inside the van with a sawzall to access the fuel pump, otherwise it would have been a long draw out job to drop the tank.
 
I also need to drop tank again on the old Corolla and replace it this time with aftermarket jc Whitney brand from Illinois
There's No telling what all is swimming around inside there now
 
almost 2 years! with maybe 3 gallons of 87 ethanol blend
I could siphon that old out and put some fresh non ethanol in there, still debating it

Somebody told me to throw some seafoam stabilizer in there but I don't know what that stuff does
Much effort has been made to replace all fuel lines under the car with OEM and HV WoolWax them good in that custom painted protective cover :cool: I got a pic somewhere don't you just know it
 
I use to use some seafoam in my sled at the start of the season. It's good for removing any moisture in your fuel. I think it was originally developed in the midwest Great Lakes region for marine use.
 
And what compromised it?

That pic has given the best look so far I have found at what goes on
And I have been at this earnest research study for 4 years now since 2o19
 
tacojoel said:
I saw a 2001 Dakota frame with bigger holes than that. Salt likes unprotected steel frames.
Click to expand...
for some time i have been wanting to test that theory out
by cutting off some taco frame piece at the salvage lot (whenever they get an old taco in which is becoming less and less these days)
then fully cleaning the frame piece good and clean, then putting some salts onit and just let it sit/set? in the garage to see what happens in due time under observation
 
Salt alone will be very very slow. You need water to complete the chemical reaction. Varying temperatures will help.

Look up a device known as a Salt Spray Booth. This is used to test products for corrosion resistance. It is an accelerated test. The booth operates by spraying a mist of 5% brine solution (salt + H2O) with elevated temperatures on a timed cycle. There are detailed instructions in the ASTM procedures.

Steel is steel. Don't really matter who made it or what vehicle it came from. Uncoated steel has the same corrosion resistance and any other piece of uncoated steel.
 
If your in the rust belt where you get snow, and ice, just strap a piece of bare steel to a telephone pole for a couple years, and don't touch it.
 
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