Tools...

So currently I use a Milaukee impact to raise and lower my spare and to raise and lower my jack in addition to removing and replacing lugnuts. But I've never been impressed with any OEM vehicle jack. The manufacturers spend as little on these as possible. So, I've been looking at electric jacks. Does anyone have any experience with these, good or bad.

electric bottle jack?
 
coz of the potential rust and i do not have an 8mm 3/8 extension that would fit that cubby under the seat
impact tools can get you in trouble fast with the torque and stripping out stuff you do not want to strip

and the reach! the driver rear door WILL NOT OPEN... i had to reach through window opening with one handed and really muscle it
I got this new Ryobi impact driver that has an assist speed button, plus 3 others that uses only as much torque as needed. With the assist, It starts sensing what's needed, and will add more depending how bad the fastener is frozen. I'm getting to really like it.
 
I come from the old school and hand-me-down tools from Papa... Although he never had metrics??
Power and or air tools were aluxury item only professional could afford and justify cost

So hand tools onlymade me less-of-a-man :confused:
I guess I'm that way when it comes to taking pictures, but I did start out with mostly hand tools, even at 19 years of age, when I was one of them backyard drag racers building my 66 gto. I still can't believe what I accomplished with what few good tools I had when you have the desire to do it. Now being 70, I've got just about anything a want, and once in awhile upgrade to something nicer.
 
IMHO. Powered tools for mechanic work are too often misused. Resulting in cross threading, stripped threads, over torque, under torque, broken fasteners, stripped or rounded heads........all sorts of stupid.

I do have a few powered mechanic tools, but they are restricted to disassembly only. Even then, I'll try to remove by hand first.

I have a much better "feel" for the fastener using hand tools. A much better feedback loop if something isn't quite what it should be.

Shops use powered tools because they save labor time.
 
agreed! that the take-down-tool for the gen1 AND gen2 tacoma is retard AND dangerous

i wonder how the AAA folks would take down the spare on a roadside assistance call

if lugs torqued to proper SPEC you really do not need an impact to remove lugs, unless there is massive rust on the threads that a 2" breaker cannot muscle off
You do when you are old, arthritic and generally stove up from a life of doing something other than sitting in a office. Besides, it's just plain easier all around. Heck, I use Milwaukee power tools for a lot of installing and removing fasteners. Why bust knuckles when you can have a machine to the work.
 
I guess I'm that way when it comes to taking pictures, but I did start out with mostly hand tools, even at 19 years of age, when I was one of them backyard drag racers building my 66 gto. I still can't believe what I accomplished with what few good tools I had when you have the desire to do it. Now being 70, I've got just about anything a want, and once in awhile upgrade to something nicer.
66 GTO, I sure would have liked t run my 68 Nova against you. Then again, where are you from, maybe we did?
 
IMHO. Powered tools for mechanic work are too often misused. Resulting in cross threading, stripped threads, over torque, under torque, broken fasteners, stripped or rounded heads........all sorts of stupid.

I do have a few powered mechanic tools, but they are restricted to disassembly only. Even then, I'll try to remove by hand first.

I have a much better "feel" for the fastener using hand tools. A much better feedback loop if something isn't quite what it should be.

Shops use powered tools because they save labor time.
A tool, any tool is only as good or bad as the person using it. If you don't know how to use power tools either learn or avoid them. But blaming the above transgressions on the tool is a cop out.
 
IMHO. Powered tools for mechanic work are too often misused. Resulting in cross threading, stripped threads, over torque, under torque, broken fasteners, stripped or rounded heads........all sorts of stupid.

I do have a few powered mechanic tools, but they are restricted to disassembly only. Even then, I'll try to remove by hand first.

I have a much better "feel" for the fastener using hand tools. A much better feedback loop if something isn't quite what it should be.

Shops use powered tools because they save labor time.
I've used battery powered tools for e-ons. Like anything, you need to used the right tool, and bits for the job you're doing. I still have my 7, and 9 volt Mikita drills from way back. Gone through a bunch of batteries which are getting harder to find good remanufactured ones. At least the chargers still work.
 
66 GTO, I sure would have liked t run my 68 Nova against you. Then again, where are you from, maybe we did?
Connecticut. I ran at the Connecticut dragway till it shutdown, then a couple years at lebanon valley in the super stock H class. Average 1/4 mile times were 12.1's at 113 mph. I ran a load of 396 super stock chevelle's during those years which I had a little less than a 50/50 record against. It was always a crap shoot being decided mostly on reaction time, at least for me.
 
Connecticut. I ran at the Connecticut dragway till it shutdown, then a couple years at lebanon valley in the super stock H class. Average 1/4 mile times were 12.1's at 113 mph. I ran a load of 396 super stock chevelle's during those years which I had a little less than a 50/50 record against. It was always a crap shoot being decided mostly on reaction time, at least for me.
Other end of the country. I mostly ran at Brotherhood on Terminal Island California. I agree, most of the guys I ran against were other high school gear heads so what we could do/afford was pretty much the same. Yea, miss a shift or be a tad slower at the start and you would loose. Good days and bad days explain most of the difference.

We did have one guy, his dad owned the speed shop most of us used that had a 440 from the factory. After he and his dad got done it was anything buy street legal. He drove on the street with sort of limited immunity. A lot of the local cops were car nuts and used his dad's shop. Guys would run against him knowing full well they didn't stand a ghost of a chance.
 
I had far better success racing dirt bikes in motocross, enduros, and cross country. I took a break from that to build a drag car, and have a little fun. The bikes were really my passion. I saw a lot of the east coast during years of competition, till a series of nagging injuries piled up forcing me to retire.
 
Interestingly the kid with the Roadrunner and his little brother were into bikes. Never good enough for pro, but they did very well in their class.I was into them too, but never to the level of wanting to compete. I blame a lot of my stuff today on those injuries. If I had just landed on my head more often I wouldn't have some of he pain I have today.
 
I never went pro either, but ran the expert 125, and 250 class's. It became more about chasing points for the seasons final standings. One of the things I liked was back in the 80's, being asked to work in the KTM pits at the U.S. 250 grand prix for a couple yearly races. Seeing those factory works bikes the pro's used would make you drool, plus I got to meet, and speak with some of the biggest names in motocross.
 
what tool specific would be needed to easy removal/replace the ITR (inner tie-rod end)

42mm ? toyota SST ?

near the 13 minute mark on this Timmy Toolman ToyotaTime video

 
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i've not ever seen one of these BENDY ratchets


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50$
 
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