Tools...

Ok.....I give. What is it? Never mind....... If I'd open the link, I'll discover those are chunks of plate steel.

The best tools I bought for vehicle maintenance are a 3 ton, high lift floor jack, coupled with 6 ton jack stands and a pair of rubber wheel chocks.

When I was a young dumb kid (16 yo), I was working on my '63 Buick. It had the old style bumper jack that hooked into a slot on the bumper. I was changing over to snow tires. Just got the summer tire off the rear when the jack let loose. Car crashed to the ground driving the drum brake into the dirt. It just missed my foot. I could not get the car back up to install the wheel. Waited until Dad got home from work to lend me his experience. Using levers and fulcrums with brute force, we were able to raise the car. Then Dad showed me how to block up a car. This is a memory from '76. One of my first driving memories.

Since then, I don't take any chance for a vehicle to fall.
 
LOL
those for the 20-ton press bot at HF awhile ago
it only came with some wimpy arbor plates and its weird that place does not sell these
but if i am going to DIY press out press in bearings + hubs on the taco and corolla i need those bed plates parallels
 
i certainly hope i have a 24 mm socket somewhere to change rear diff whilst its warmish out today at 35 degrees
its for the '11 Tacoma, and will be its first change ever at 67k miles
 
I know some never change the differential gear oil and wonder why they need a new one at 150k miles. It should be replaced every 30k miles.
 
tacojoel said:
I know some never change the differential gear oil and wonder why they need a new one at 150k miles. It should be replaced every 30k miles.
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I know of someone in Virginia through that other place that has over 400k '96 Taco with original diffs and MT fluid still with no issues but he has stopped putting many miles onit last i checked he got a fancy Gen3 lol
 
tacojoel said:
I know some never change the differential gear oil and wonder why they need a new one at 150k miles. It should be replaced every 30k miles.
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every 30k can run into some good coin at the going rate of close to 300$ for 4x4 fluid service (does not include MT if so equipped)
it used to NOT cost so darned much :(
 
It only costs the price of the fluid if you DIY the task.

It isn't a difficult task. Just a little messy. Fill can be a bit awkward, but a pump helps immensely.

For the cost of $300, I can buy fluid and a pump with about $250 left over in my pocket.
 
Don't you have to remove the spare tire with the take-down tool to get at the rear fill
On my truck you have to unless elaborate methods are employed to keep it on the level
There is where an open service pit would provide benefits beyond compare
 
Can't say about Gen1. I know when I did the diffs and xfer case on my Gen2, the spare tire wasn't involved. IIRC, didn't need jack stands nor a jack.

Used a chunk of cardboard as a creeper. Oil drain pan, a few wrenches, hand pump. The next day, I did a fluid/filter change on the AT. This work was done in 2020 at 109,xxx miles. Prolly need to repeat this Summer/Fall. Truck is at 126,xxx miles.
 
JayQQ97 said:
i certainly hope i have a 24 mm socket somewhere to change rear diff whilst its warmish out today at 35 degrees
its for the '11 Tacoma, and will be its first change ever at 67k miles
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i do not have a 24mm socket nor does my nephew
so I shall have to order up one o_O
 
FWIW. I have shifted all my 1/2" drive sockets to the IMPACT rated versions, only 6 point.

I tighten everything by hand using a torque wrench as needed. I have a medium duty pneumatic impact gun for removing the stubborn ones.

Yeah, the impact versions are a little more expensive. Worth the extra cost when a job comes to a screeching halt due to a broken socket.


BTW, if you have a Menards DIY store near. They have competitive prices and an 11% rebate on anything you purchase.
 
i have a cheapo mini air impact tool from HF
but have only used it twice to get the crankshaft pulley bolt off the Corolla and the crusty water pump pulley bolts off on that car in a rather tight spot
i had to partially drop the fuel tank on that car to replace some rotted fuel tubes and may have to drop it again :eek:
those fuel strap bolts were somewhat challenging to remove very slowly by hand with a very long breaker bar over 2 feet turning very slowly , the rust was not bad on the bottom of the bolts somehow... except on top of the bolts that poke through the cavity
 
Yeah, rust is always a bitch.

There aren't too many good methods to loosen those bitchy rusted fasteners. About the only methods I have found for success is a penetrant like PB Blaster (not WD-40) or heat (propane torch) or partial turn loose/tighten. Always a good supply of blue words to release frustration with a donation of blood.

I have a pair of D-rings to install on the front bed bolts. But, those friggin' bolts won't budge. Of course, they use a funky T-50 fastener. The chance of cam-out/round off is very high. If I am ever successful, the bolts will be replaced with a stronger wrench feature.

I have a feeling a brute force method will be needed to remove those bed bolts. Currently thinking a pound or 2 of C-4.
 
i would just try a VERY long breaker/cheater bar/pipe with a half inch 10'' extension for clearance and walk it very slowly from several feet away
the worst toyota bolts are these engine undercover splash shield bolts on the Corolla and the exhaust shield bolts, snapped off maybe 10 of them that had to be drilled out and restore the threads. new bolts were dunked in WoolWax HV thick sheepfat paste to hopefully prevent them getting stuck in the threads if they ever should need to be removed again

when i get to remove my relatives '11 Taco skid plate to deweather under the front those crusted bolts are going to snap right off i bet :confused:
they do not seem to be of superior quality like the skid bolts on my Gen1 are, not a lick of rust on them!
 
Hmmmmm.......just had a thought.

I wonder if the low strength loctite would prevent water from penetrating the threads????? This stuff works by filling the small gaps between the male/female threads.

Generally, I'll use an anti-seize on threads, but I always have a little concern about loosening.
 
Rock62 said:
FWIW. I have shifted all my 1/2" drive sockets to the IMPACT rated versions, only 6 point.

I tighten everything by hand using a torque wrench as needed. I have a medium duty pneumatic impact gun for removing the stubborn ones.

Yeah, the impact versions are a little more expensive. Worth the extra cost when a job comes to a screeching halt due to a broken socket.


BTW, if you have a Menards DIY store near. They have competitive prices and an 11% rebate on anything you purchase.
Click to expand...
I've been slowly doing the same slowly buying impact 6 point sockets from lowes as i need them.
 
I only have 12pt metrics in 1/2" all bot in last 2yrs
Some 6pt I have metric but only 3/8 drive and no really big sizes
 
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